Noel

Designer: Roseann Meehan Kermes

• 4--9×22" pieces (fat eighths) of assorted cream prints for appliqué foundation and borders
• 3⁄8 yard of red print for borders and berry and letter appliqués
• 1⁄2 yard of green print for borders
• 1⁄4 yard of dark green print for leaf appliqués
• 18×22" piece (fat quarter) of red-and-green stripe for binding
• 7⁄8 yard of backing fabric
• 30" square of quilt batting
• Fusible web
• Embroidery floss: green, dark green, red, and dark red

Finished quilt top: 24" square

Quantities specified for 44⁄45"-wide, 100% cotton fabrics.

All measurements include a 1⁄4" seam allowance. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

To make the best use of your fabrics, cut the pieces in the order that follows. Click on "Download this Project" above for pattern pieces. To use fusible web for appliquéing, as was done with this project, complete the following steps.

1.     Lay the fusible web, paper side up, over the appliqué patterns. Use a pencil to trace each pattern the number of times indicated, leaving 1⁄2" between tracings. Cut out each fusible-web shape roughly 1⁄4" outside the traced lines.

2.     Following the manufacturer's instructions, press the fusible-web shapes onto the backs of the designated fabrics; let cool. Cut out the fabric shapes on the drawn lines. Peel off the paper backings.

From assorted cream prints, cut:

• 4--6-1⁄2" squares
• 12--2-1⁄2" squares

From red print, cut:

• 12--2-7⁄8" squares, cutting each in half diagonally for a total of 24 triangles
• 8--2-1⁄2" squares
• 4 each of letters n, o, e, and l
• 24 of Pattern A

From green print, cut:

• 4--4-1⁄2 ×16-1⁄2" outer border rectangles
• 12--2-7⁄8" squares, cutting each in half diagonally for a total of 24 triangles

From dark green print, cut:

• 16 each of patterns B and C

From red-and-green stripe, cut:

• 1--17×19" rectangle, cutting it into enough 2-1⁄2"-wide bias strips to total 116" in length for binding

1.     Referring to Diagram 1 for placement, lay out the four assorted cream print 6-1⁄2" squares in pairs. ​

2.     Sew together each pair. Press the seam allowances in opposite directions. Then join the pairs to make the quilt center. Press the seam allowances in one direction. The quilt center should measure 12-1⁄2" square, including the seam allowances.

1.     Sew together a red print triangle and a green print triangle to make a triangle-square (Diagram 2). Press the seam allowance toward the red print triangle. The triangle-square should measure 2-1⁄2" square, including the seam allowances. Repeat to make a total of 24 triangle-squares.

2.     Referring to the Quilt Assembly Diagram, lay out six triangle-squares in a row. Sew the triangle-squares together to make a pieced inner border strip. Press the seam allowances in one direction. Repeat to make a total of four pieced inner border strips.

3.     Join pieced inner border strips to opposite edges of the quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the inner border. Add a cream print 2-1⁄2" square to each end of the remaining pieced inner border strips. Sew these inner border strips to the remaining edges of the quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the inner border. The pieced quilt center should now measure 16-1⁄2" square, including the seam allowances.

1.     Referring to Diagram 3, lay out two cream print 2-1⁄2" squares and two red print 2-1⁄2" squares in pairs.

2.     Sew together each pair, pressing the seam allowances toward the red print squares. Then join the pairs to make a Four-Patch block. Press the seam allowances in one direction. The pieced Four-Patch block should measure 4-1⁄2" square, including the seam allowances. Repeat to make a total of four Four-Patch blocks.

3.     Referring to the Quilt Assembly Diagram, sew green print 4-1⁄2 ×16-1⁄2" outer border rectangles to opposite edges of the pieced quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the outer border rectangles. Then add a Four-Patch block to each end of the remaining green print 4-1⁄2 ×16-1⁄2" rectangles to make outer border units. Press the seam allowances toward the green print rectangles. Join the outer border units to the remaining edges of the quilt center to make the quilt top.

1.     Referring to the photograph and Quilt Assembly Diagram for placement, arrange the appliqué shapes on the quilt top. When pleased with the arrangement, fuse the pieces in place.

2.     Using two strands of embroidery floss that match the appliqué fabrics, whipstitch around all of the appliqué pieces, working from the bottom layer to the top.

3.     Using two strands of green floss and a running stitch, embroider a leaf vein down the center and out to the sides of each holly leaf. To make a running stitch, pull your needle up at A (Running Stitch Diagram) and insert it back into the fabric at B, 1⁄8" away from A. Pull your needle up at C, 1⁄8" away from B, and continue in the same manner.

4.     Using three strands of dark red floss, add a cluster of three French knots to each berry. To make a French knot, pull your needle up at A (French Knot Diagram), the point where the knot is desired. Wrap the floss around your needle two or three times without twisting it. Insert the tip of your needle into the fabric at B, 1⁄16" away from A. Gently push the wraps down the needle to meet the fabric. Pull the needle and trailing floss through the fabric slowly and smoothly.

1.     Layer the quilt top, batting, and backing.

2.     Quilt as desired. Machine-quilter Patti Trygg quilted a holly and loop design across the quilt top.

3.     Use the red-and-green stripe 2-1⁄2"-wide bias strips to bind the quilt.