Peppermint Twist

Designer: Roseann Meehan Kermes of Rosebud's Cottage

• 1-1⁄2 yards total assorted red-and-white prints (quilt center)
• 1-1⁄2 yards total assorted white tone-on-tones (quilt center)
• 1 yard total assorted red tone-on-tones (quilt center)
• 2⁄3 yard dark red batik (sashing)
• 7⁄8 yard white polka dot (inner border)
• 1-5⁄8 yards red swirl print (outer border)
• 5⁄8 yard red diagonal stripe (binding)
• 5-1⁄2 yards backing fabric
•  63×97" batting

Finished quilt: 56-1⁄2×90-1⁄2"

Quantities are for 44⁄45"-wide, 100% cotton fabrics.

Measurements include 1⁄4" seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut pieces in the following order.

From assorted red-and-white prints, cut:

• 18--2-1⁄2×22" strips
• 18--2-1⁄2×20" strips

From assorted white tone-on-tones, cut:

• 18--2-1⁄2×22" strips
• 18--2-1⁄2×20" strips

From assorted red tone-on-tones, cut:

• 12--2-1⁄2×22" strips
• 12--2-1⁄2×20" strips

From dark red batik, cut:

• 8--2-1⁄2×42" strips for sashing

From white polka dot, cut: 

• 7--3-1⁄2×42" strips for inner border

From red swirl print, cut: 

• 8--6-1⁄2×42" strips for outer border

From red diagonal stripe, cut: 

• 8--2-1⁄2×42" binding strips

1.    Aligning long edges, lay out 12 assorted red-and-white print, white tone-on-tone, and red tone-on-tone 2-1⁄2×20" strips (Diagram 1).

2.    Sew together strips to make strip set A. Press seams in one direction. Cut strip set A into three 6-1⁄2"-wide A units.

3.    Repeat steps 1 and 2 to make 12 A units total.

4.    Referring to Diagram 2, repeat Step 1 with assorted red-and-white print, white tone-on-tone, and red tone-on-tone 2-1⁄2×22" strips; work from bottom to top and offset each strip by 2" to the right to make strip set B. Cut strip set B into two 6-1⁄2"-wide B units. Repeat to make six B units total.

5.    Referring to Diagram 3, repeat Step 4, offsetting each strip by 2" to the left, to make strip set C. Cut strip set C into two 6-1⁄2"-wide C units.

1.    To make a rough plan of quilt center, lay out units A, B, and C in five vertical rows. Refer to Quilt Assembly Diagram for unit placement and rotation.

2.    Where units meet, cut ends in opposing 45-degree angles (blue lines on Quilt Assembly Diagram indicate which ends need to be cut). Using an acrylic ruler and a rotary cutter, cut each unit end as desired (Diagram 4). Be sure to save cut-off pieces to square up ends of rows if necessary.

3.    To join units, use diagonal seams. Offset angled ends of units about 1⁄4" then sew together (Diagram 5).

4.    Trim each vertical row to 6-1⁄2×72-1⁄2" including seam allowances.

5.    Cut and piece dark red batik 2-1⁄2×42" strips to make:

• 4--2-1⁄2×72-1⁄2" sashing strips

6.    Alternating vertical rows and sashing strips, join pieces to make quilt center. Press seams toward sashing. The quilt center should be 38-1⁄2×72-1⁄2" including seam allowances.

1.    Cut and piece white polka dot 3-1⁄2×42" strips to make:

• 2--3-1⁄2×72-1⁄2" inner border strips
• 2--3-1⁄2×44-1⁄2" inner border strips

2.    Sew long inner border strips to long edges of quilt center. Add short inner border strips to remaining edges. Press all seams toward border.

3.    Cut and piece red swirl print 6-1⁄2×42" strips to make:

• 2--6-1⁄2×78-1⁄2" outer border strips
• 2--6-1⁄2×56-1⁄2" outer border strips

4.    Sew long outer border strips to long edges of quilt center. Add short outer border strips to remaining edges to complete quilt center. Press all seams toward outer border.

1.    Layer quilt top, batting, and backing; baste.

2.    Quilt as desired. Machine-quilter Patti Trygg stitched back-and-forth lines in each piece of the strip sets. She stitched a loopy design in the inner border and an allover double-swirl pattern in the outer border. Once the quilting was done, designer Roseann Meehan Kermes trimmed each corner in a gentle curve. (Trace around the edge of a small dinner plate to mimic this curve. Trim quilt edge along traced line.) Handle trimmed edges carefully so quilting doesn't unravel.

3.    Bind with red diagonal stripe binding strips. Roseann liked the look of the diagonal stripe fabric so much, she chose not to cut her binding strips on the bias (as you'd normally do for binding curved edges). As she sewed the binding to the quilt top, she eased in extra fabric along each curve so the binding strip would have enough stretch to turn over the curved edge.