Spiral Stockings

Designers: Mary Reddington and RaNae Merrill

For the stocking body, choose a nondirectional small to medium print. Look for a motif to fussy-cut for the spiral centers. For fabrics X, Y, and Z, which form the spirals (see Diagram 3), choose solids or small tone-on-tones that are nondirectional and contrast with the stocking body. Fabrics Y and Z should be lighter than X.

• 1⁄4 yard dark green print (fabric X in spirals)
• 1⁄8 yard olive green print (fabric Y in spirals)
• 1⁄8 yard bright pink print (fabric Z in spirals)
• 1⁄2 yard red print (stocking body, background of spirals, cuff lining, hanging loop)
• 3⁄4 yard multicolor stripe (cuff, stocking lining)
• 19×32" thin, lightweight batting

Quantities are for 44⁄45"-wide, 100% cotton fabrics.

Measurements include 3⁄8" seam allowances unless otherwise specified. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut pieces in the following order. Click on "Download this Project" above for foundation patterns.

1.    Print or copy the following:

• 2 each of Spiral Foundations A, B, and C on white paper
• 1 each of Spiral Foundations A, B, and C on a nonwoven foundation sheet

2.    From white paper, cut the following:

• 2--7-1⁄4 ×5-1⁄4" rectangles for cuff lining pattern

3.    To make stocking template, cut out one each of white paper Spiral Foundations A, B, and C along outer solid line. Join sections along dashed lines. Attach a white paper 7-1⁄4 ×5-1⁄4" rectangle to top edge (Diagram 1).

4.    Cover the back of the second set of white paper spiral foundations with strips of double-sided tape spaced about 1⁄4" apart. Cut apart shapes on solid lines to make templates.

Cut pieces in the following order.

From dark green print, cut:

• 3--1-1⁄2 ×21" strips (for positions X6 and X7)
• 5--1×21" strips (for positions X2–X5)
• 1--3⁄4 ×21" strip (for position X1)

From olive green print, cut:

• 1--1-1⁄2×21" strip (for positions Y6 and Y7)
• 2--1×21" strips (for positions Y2–Y5)
• 1--3⁄4×21" strip (for position Y1)

From bright pink print, cut: 

• 2--1-1⁄2×21" strips (for positions Z6 and Z7)
• 3--1×21" strips (for positions Z2–Z5)
• 1--3⁄4 ×21" strip (for position Z1)

From red print, cut:

• 1 of stocking template reversed, adding 1⁄2" to all edges to allow for shrinkage when quilting
• 1--5-1⁄4×7-1⁄4" rectangle
• 1--2-1⁄2×5" rectangle
• 3-fussy-cut 2-1⁄2" squares
• 1 each of templates A1–A4, B1–B4, and C1–C5, adding a 3⁄8" seam allowance to all edges

From multicolor stripe, cut:

• 2--13×19" rectangles
• 2--6×16" rectangles
• 1--5-1⁄4×14-1⁄2" rectangle

From batting, cut:

• 2--13×19" rectangles
• 1--6×16" rectangle

Unlike other methods of foundation piecing, in this project there is no need to reverse the foundation because its translucent material lets you see lines from both sides. Put fabric pieces on the front (printed) side of foundation and sew from the back (unprinted) side. Remove the paper template from each fabric piece just before placing it on the foundation.

1.    Adhere three each of templates X1–X7 onto right side of dark green print strips as indicated in Cut Fabrics, placing long side of each template on straight grain of fabric and leaving at least 1⁄2" between triangles (Diagram 2). Place each template so there is a 1⁄4" seam allowance on the longest side.

2.    Repeat Step 1 to adhere one each of templates Y1–Y7 onto olive green print strips and two each of templates Z1–Z7 onto bright pink print strips. Cut strips crosswise into a rectangle for each triangle, 1⁄4" bigger all around than the adhered template (Diagram 2).

3.    Place Spiral Foundation A right side up on work surface. Position a red print 2-1⁄2" square right side up in center of foundation (Diagram 3). Pin in place or temporarily secure with a piece of rolled masking tape.

4.    Place foundation facedown on a cutting mat. Highlight sewing lines for the innermost ring of triangles (Diagram 4). Fold foundation back on one segment of highlighted seam line and trim to 1⁄8" beyond fold (Diagram 5). Repeat for each triangle around ring (Diagram 6) to complete a "next-step trim."

5.    Position three dark green print X1s facedown on front of foundation, lining up X1 long raw edges with raw edges of trimmed red print hexagon (Diagram 7). Turn foundation over and stitch from back along seam line for each X1 triangle (Diagram 8).

6.    Press open attached pieces (Diagram 9). Pin or tape loose edges of fabric into position. To avoid jagged edges on the "spokes" of the finished spiral, be sure to press fabric open all the way to the seam.

7.    Position two bright pink print Y1 and one olive green print Z1 pieces facedown on front of foundation on remaining raw edges of trimmed center hexagon (Diagram 10); pin or tape. Stitch on Y and Z lines. Press shapes open and tape (Diagram 11).

8.    Do a next-step trim as in Step 5 to complete Ring 1 (diagrams 12 and 13). Use the second color of highlighter to mark next ring of triangles. If you secured center with rolled masking tape, cut or tear away center foundation to remove tape.

9.    Position dark green print X2s right side down on front of foundation (Diagram 14). Stitch on newly highlighted X lines, being careful to stitch exactly on drawn lines (Diagram 15). Press shapes open and tape.

10.  Position one olive green print Y2 and two bright pink print Z2s as in Step 8 (Diagram 16). Stitch on newly highlighted Y and Z lines (Diagram 17).

11.  Press shapes open, tape, and do a next-step trim to complete Ring 2 (Diagram 18).

12.   Repeat assembly steps for each ring of triangles, moving out from the center, until you reach edge of foundation (Diagram 19). Carefully follow the X, Y, and Z color placements marked on foundation. As you add rings to the spiral, you will see the spokes grow. After adding all Ring 7 pieces, do a next-step trim, but do not trim dashed line.

13.  Add red print A1–A4 background pieces in numerical order to complete spiral A (Diagram 20). Press spiral A and baste around edges within seam allowance. Do not remove foundation yet.

14.  Repeat steps 1–14 to make one each of spirals B and C.

1.    Trim fabric and foundations of each spiral along solid outer line.

2.    Using 3⁄8" seam allowance, join red print 5-1⁄4×7-1⁄4" rectangle, and spirals A, B, and C to make stocking front (Diagram 21). Carefully match points where spirals "flow" into one another. Press seams open.

1.    Layer stocking front, a batting 13×19" rectangle, and a multicolor stripe 13×19" lining rectangle; baste.

2.    Quilt as desired. The featured stocking front is machine-quilted along edges of spiral spokes, around centers, and around outer edge of spirals.

3.    Zigzag around edges of stocking front. Trim excess lining and batting around edges to complete quilted stocking front.

4.    Layer red print stocking reversed piece, a batting 13×19" rectangle, and a multicolor stripe 13×19" lining rectangle; baste. Quilt as desired to make stocking back.

5.    Lay quilted stocking back on your work surface, lining side up. Position quilted stocking front on top, lining side down. Pin, then trim quilted stocking back to match stocking front. Remove pins and stocking front; machine zigzag-stitch around outer edge of quilted stocking back.

1.    With right sides together (lining facing out), pin quilted stocking front to quilted stocking back.

2.    Stitch around edges with 3⁄8" seam, leaving top edge open. Stitch again over curved parts of seam to reinforce them (Diagram 22).

3.    Cut small V notches about 1⁄2" apart around heel and toe curves. Make small clips into inner curve of ankle, about 1⁄2" apart up to, but not through, seam line. Turn stocking right side out and press lightly.

Tip: Clip one layer at a time so tip of scissors can't cut into seam. Stagger notches between front and back layers to reduce bulk and help seam turn more smoothly.

1.    Layer batting 6×16" rectangle between multicolor stripe 6×16" rectangles; baste. Quilt as desired to make a quilted cuff. Trim to 5-1⁄2×14-1⁄2" including seam allowances. Zigzag around all edges (Diagram 23).

2.    Sew together 5-1⁄2" edges of quilted cuff with 3⁄8" seam allowance to make a tube. Press seam open (Diagram 24).

3.    Sew together 5-1⁄4" edges of multicolor stripe 5-1⁄4×14-1⁄2" cuff lining rectangle with a 3⁄8" seam allowance. (This is deliberately 1⁄4" narrower than the cuff so the lining seam will be pulled up under edge of cuff, similar to a facing on a shirt.) Press seam open.

4.    Slide lining tube inside quilted cuff with right sides together. To reduce bulk, do not align seams. Align top raw edges and pin. Stitch with a 3⁄8" seam allowance (Diagram 25).

5.    Open tube so lining and front are flat, with seam allowance of quilted side extending under lining side. Stitch about 1⁄8" from seam on lining side to keep lining in place (Diagram 26).

6.    Turn lining to inside of cuff and press. Pull lining up inside tube and align raw edges at top. Baste top edges of lining and quilted cuff together, 1⁄4" from edge of quilted portion (Diagram 27). Use the longest stitch you can, do not overlap ends of basting, and leave tails of thread at each end. Zigzag around raw edge of cuff.

7.    Turn cuff right side out so lining is on inside. Insert cuff into top of stocking with seam in middle of back of stocking.

8.    Pin together stocking body and cuff, aligning raw edges at top. Cuff is slightly larger than stocking, so pin cuff at both sides of stocking, then stretch stocking to ease in slack of cuff. If necessary, use basting thread on top of cuff to pull it in to fit. Pin every 1" or less to help ease in cuff.

1.    To make hanging loop, fold red print 2-1⁄2×5" rectangle in half lengthwise. (Diagram 28). Press raw edges under 1⁄4". Press folded edge over raw edge. Zigzag along folded edge.

Tip: Don't use a straight stitch on the loop's folded edge; when the stocking is full, the loop will stretch a bit and a straight stitch will break.

2.    Fold strip in half to make a loop 2-1⁄2" long. Insert loop with fold down between cuff and stocking body about 1⁄4" behind seam on heel side of stocking. Align raw ends of hanging loop with raw edges of cuff and stocking body (Diagram 29).

3.    Stitch around top edge of stocking with a 3⁄8" seam. Return to hanging loop ends and stitch back and forth several times in seam allowance to secure loop.

4.    Turn cuff and loop to outside over top of stocking.