Two-Color Star Pillow

Inspired by Stitch and Switch Winter from designer Corey Yoder

Pillow tester: Jan Ragaller

Yardages and cutting instructions are based on 42" of usable fabric width.

• 1 yard solid green (block, border, binding)
• 1⁄2 yard solid light gray (block, border)
• 7⁄8 yard backing fabric
• 27"-square muslin (lining)
• 27"-square batting
• 24"-square pillow form

Finished size: 24-1⁄2" square

Finished block: 18" square

Cut pieces in the following order. If you prefer to make triangle-squares larger than necessary and trim them to size, cut solid green and solid light gray 4" squares instead of the 3-7⁄8" squares specified here.

From solid green, cut:

• 3 --2-1⁄2 × 42" binding strips
• 1 --6-1⁄2" square
• 4 --3-7⁄8" squares
• 4 --3-7⁄8" squares, cutting each in half diagonally for 8 large triangles total
• 4 --3-1⁄2 × 6-1⁄2" rectangles
• 64 --2-5⁄8 × 3-1⁄2" rectangles
• 4 --2-5⁄8" squares

From solid light gray, cut:

• 2-- 4-1⁄4" squares, cutting each diagonally twice in an X for 8 small triangles total
• 4 --3-7⁄8" squares
• 20--3-1⁄2" squares
• 28--2-5⁄8" squares

From backing fabric, cut:

• 2--14-3⁄4 × 24-1⁄2" rectangles

Measurements include 1⁄4" seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Press seams in directions indicated by arrows on diagrams. If no direction is specified, press seam toward darker fabric.

1)    Use a pencil to mark a diagonal line on wrong side of solid green 3-7⁄8" squares. (To prevent fabric from stretching as you draw lines, place 220-grit sandpaper under each square.)

2)    Layer a marked solid green square atop a solid light gray 3-7⁄8" square. Sew together with two seams, stitching 1⁄4" on each side of drawn line (Diagram 1). Cut pair apart on drawn line. Press open to make two triangle-squares. Each triangle-square should be 3-1⁄2" square including seam allowances. Repeat to make eight triangle-squares total.

3)    Referring to Diagram 2, sew together two triangle-squares and two solid light gray 3-1⁄2" squares in pairs. Join pairs to make a corner unit. The unit should be 6-1⁄2" square including seam allowances. Repeat to make four corner units total.

4)    Use a pencil to mark a diagonal line on wrong side of remaining solid light gray 3-1⁄2" squares.

5)    Align a marked solid light gray square with one end of a solid green 3-1⁄2 × 6-1⁄2" rectangle (Diagram 3; note direction of marked line). Sew on marked line; trim excess fabric, leaving 1⁄4" seam allowance. Press open attached triangle. Add a second marked solid light gray square to opposite end of rectangle to make a green Flying Geese unit. The unit still should be 6-1⁄2 × 3-1⁄2" including seam allowances. Repeat to make four green Flying Geese units total.

6)    Referring to Diagram 4, sew together two solid light gray small triangles and a solid green 2-5⁄8" square.

7)    Referring to Diagram 5, sew two solid green large triangles to the Step 6 unit to make a pieced Flying Geese unit. The unit should be 3-1⁄2 × 6-1⁄2" including seam allowances.

8)    Repeat steps 6 and 7 to make four pieced Flying Geese units total.

9)  Referring to Diagram 6, sew together a green Flying Geese unit and a pieced Flying Geese unit to make a side unit (Diagram 6). The unit should be 6-1⁄2" square including seam allowances. Repeat to make four side units total.

10)    Align a marked solid light gray square with a corner of solid green 6-1⁄2" square (Diagram 7; note direction of drawn line). Sew on drawn line; trim excess fabric, leaving 1⁄4" seam allowance. Press open attached triangle. Working counterclockwise, continue with remaining marked solid light gray squares to make a Square-in-a-Square unit. The unit should be 6-1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

11)    Referring to Diagram 8, lay out corner units, side units, and Square-in-a-Square unit in three rows. Sew together pieces in rows. Join rows to make a block. The block should be 18-1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

1)    Sew solid green 2-5⁄8 × 3-1⁄2" rectangles to opposite edges of a solid light gray 2-5⁄8" square to make a border unit (Diagram 9). The unit should be 2-5⁄8  × 8-5⁄8" including seam allowances. Repeat to make 28 border units total.

2)    Referring to Diagram 10, sew together six border units so that points of solid light gray squares align. Sew a remaining solid green 2-5⁄8 × 3-1⁄2" rectangle to each end of row, making sure green rectangles extend at least 1⁄4" past solid green squares. Press seams in one direction.

3)    Trim Step 2 unit 1⁄4" from each outer solid green square point to make top border strip (Diagram 11). The strip should be to 3-1⁄2 × 18-1⁄2" including seam allowances.

4)    Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make bottom border strip.

5)    Using eight border units, repeat steps 2 and 3 to make a side border strip. The strip should be 3-1⁄2 × 24-1⁄2" including seam allowances. Repeat to make a second side border strip.

1)    Referring to Pillow Top Assembly Diagram, sew top and bottom border strips to block. Press seams toward block.

2)    Sew side border strips to block to make pillow top. Press seams toward block. The pillow top should be 24-1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

1)    Layer pillow top, batting, and muslin; baste. Quilt as desired.

2)    Trim batting and muslin even with pillow top edges.

3)    Turn one long edge of each backing fabric 14-3⁄4  × 24-1⁄2" rectangle under 1⁄4"; press. Turn under 1⁄4" again and stitch in place to hem pillow back pieces. Each pillow back piece should be 14-1⁄4 ×  24-1⁄2" including seam allowances.

4)    Referring to Pillow Back Assembly Diagram, overlap hemmed edges of pillow back pieces by 4" to make a 24-1⁄2" square. Stitch across overlaps to make pillow back.

5)    Layer quilted pillow top and pillow back with wrong sides together. Stitch a scant 1⁄4" from outer edges to make pillow cover.

6)    Bind pillow cover with solid green binding strips. Insert pillow form through opening to complete pillow.