Barn Star Pillow

Inspired by Stitch & Switch Pillow by designer Corey Yoder

Quilt tester: Jan Ragaller

*    2⁄3 yard each solid green and solid white (block, border, binding)

*    3⁄4 yard backing fabric

*    27" square muslin (lining)

*    27" square batting

*    24"-square pillow form

Finished size: 24-1⁄2" square

Finished block: 18" square

Yardages and cutting instructions are based on 42" of usable fabric width.

Measurements include 1⁄4" seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Press seams in directions indicated by arrows on diagrams. If no direction is specified, press seam toward darker fabric.

Cut pieces in the following order. If you prefer to make triangle-squares larger than needed and trim them to size, cut 4" squares instead of the 3-7⁄8" squares specified in cutting instructions.

From solid green, cut:

*    3--2-1⁄2 ×42" binding strips

*    4--3-7⁄8" squares

*    20--3-1⁄2" squares

From solid white, cut:

*    5--6-1⁄2" squares

*    4--3-7⁄8" squares

*    8--3-1⁄2" squares

*    4--3-1⁄2 ×18-1⁄2" rectangles

From backing fabric, cut:

*    2--14-3⁄4 × 24-1⁄2" rectangles

1.    Use a pencil to mark a diagonal line on wrong side of each solid green 3- 7⁄8" square. (To prevent fabric from stretching as you draw lines, place 220-grit sandpaper under each square.)

2.    Layer a marked solid green square atop a solid white 3 -7⁄8" square. Sew together with two seams, stitching 1⁄4" on each side of drawn line (Diagram 1). Cut pair apart on drawn line. Press open to make two triangle-squares. Each triangle-square should be 3- 1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

3.    Referring to Diagram 2, sew together triangle-squares and two solid white 3- 1⁄2" squares in pairs. Join pairs to make a corner unit. The unit should be 6- 1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

4.    Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make four corner units total.

5.    Use a pencil to mark a diagonal line on wrong side of 16 solid green 3 -1⁄2" squares.

6.    Align a marked solid green square with a corner of a solid white 6 -1⁄2" square (Diagram 3; note direction of drawn line). Sew on drawn line; trim excess fabric, leaving 1⁄4" seam allowance. Press open attached triangle.

7.    Working counterclockwise, repeat Step 6 with three more marked solid green squares to make a Square-in-a-Square unit (Diagram 3). The unit should be 6 -1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

8.    Repeat steps 6 and 7 to make four Square-in-a-Square units total.

1.    Referring to Diagram 4, lay out corner units, Square-in-a-Square units, and remaining solid white 6 -1⁄2" square in three rows. Sew together pieces in rows. Join rows to make star block. The block should be 18- 1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

2.    Referring to Pillow Top Assembly Diagram, lay out remaining solid green 3 -1⁄2" squares, solid white 3- 1⁄2 ×18- 1⁄2" rectangles, and star block in three rows.

3.    Sew together pieces in rows. Press seams toward rectangles. Join rows to make pillow top. Press seams in one direction. The pillow top should be 24- 1⁄2" square including seam allowances.

1.    Layer pillow top, batting, and muslin lining; baste.

2.    Quilt as desired. Quilt tester Jan Ragaller stitched in the ditch.

3.    Trim batting and muslin lining even with pillow top edges.

4.    Turn one long edge of each backing fabric 14-3⁄4 × 24-1⁄2" rectangle under 1⁄4"; press. Turn under 1⁄4" again. Stitch in place to hem pillow back pieces. Each pillow back piece should be 14-1⁄4 × 24-1⁄2" including seam allowances.

5.    Referring to Pillow Back Assembly Diagram, overlap hemmed edges of pillow back pieces by 4" to make a 24-1⁄2" square. Stitch across overlapped edges to make pillow back.

6.    Layer quilted pillow top and pillow back with wrong sides together. Stitch a scant 1⁄4" from outer edges to make pillow cover.

7.    Bind pillow cover with solid green binding strips. Insert pillow form through opening to complete pillow.