Complete Guide to Quilting
Video 12: Foundation Piecing Basics
Foundation piecing is a method that quilters have used for some time in order to achieve precision in their piecing. Now foundation piecing in its entirety could mean piecing on interfacing or muslin or paper, so for this example we're going to be using paper piecing for our foundation method. This is a block that you might be best to piece using a paper piecing method. It's a New York Beauty block and as you can see there are lots of points and curves. And really accurate size pieces in order to get them to go together smoothly is essential in creating this block. Let me show you how we put this together. With paper piecing patterns you'll find that there are numbers designated on the patterns as well as solid lines and dashed lines. The solid lines are going to be your stitching lines and then dashed lines around the exterior are accommodating for your seam allowances. The numbers are essential. If you're making copies of your pattern by hand, you want to make sure that you put all the numbers on your pattern because that's the sequence that you're going to add pieces to the foundation pattern in. This is your pattern. The first line you're going to stitch on is the line between sections one and two. I've highlighted it here in orange. In order to do that you can work with any sized piece of fabric but some quilters find it easiest to start out with like sizes, so that they know exactly what area they're trying to cover. So we started with rectangles for both the light and red areas on the pattern. The first thing you need to do in foundation piecing is to understand that you're working on both the front or printed side of the pattern and on the back side. And to start with you're going to lay down the piece of fabric for piece one. It's going to be face up. And on top of it aligning the raw edges will be piece two -- the piece that's going to cover area two on your paper pieced pattern. Now, you're going to want to make sure that you have enough fabric extending over that line between one and two to allow for the seam allowance. And this is where it might be easier for you to hold the pattern up to the light, and to look through, and to make sure that your seam allowance is extending a quarter inch past the line between one and two. So that's what I've done here. If I had done that before and stitched it, I would have to hold it sort of position it. Then when I take it to my machine, I'm simply going to sew from the right side of the paper all away from that dashed line, which is nice seam allowance on the solid line between sections one and two, all the way extending through the dashed line at the bottom. Again that means my stitches go through my seam allowance. Now when you're piecing on paper, the paper ultimately is going to be removed, so you may want to use a bigger needle than usual (maybe a 90/14, because that would help perforate the paper so it's easier to remove), and also a smaller than usual stitch length, something about twelve to sixteen stitches per inch. So I stitch on that line between one and two, extending through the seam allowances. I remove it from my machine. And then I'll open up the fabrics and finger press that seam allowance. Now the piece of fabric that's covering section two obviously extends well past because I cut it into rectangles. And I have sort of a pie-shape piece. So in order to eliminate some of that extra fabric before I continue on, I'm going to turn my pattern over and I'm going to just use a little ruler here to give me an edge to crease it against. I'll fold the pattern back against that line between sections two and three and this will give me the line or the angle that I want to trim my fabric in, so again if I had my mat out here, I just placement ruler on there, give myself a quarter inch seam allowance, and trim that off. I've done that already on this piece. So you can see what that would look like if I turned it over. Here you have the whole piece and here you can see that pie-shape wedge. So now I've got the fabric that's covering section one and two. I'm ready to add another cream rectangle to cover area three. Because I've trimmed this into the right shape this edge already extends a quarter inch past that line on the front. So I just use it as the positioning guide for my next piece. And here I added that rectangle, lined it up on that angle. I take it back to my machine and stitch on the line between two and three, extending through the seam allowance. Remove that from the machine. Open that up and you could see the pie-shape wedge starting to form. And then I would repeat the same trimming exercise on the line between three and four, which is the next line I'll stitch. So I'll lay my ruler down on that line, fold the pattern back, and then this will be where I trim off, allowing myself that quarter inch seam allowance. It's worth the extra time and effort to use the foundation or paper piecing method when you see the great results you can achieve.
Video 14: Using Fusible Web
Usable web can be a great tool for doing easy application. And understanding a few simple rules about how to best use it can make your application finished. Well look even better. When you're buying usable you want to make sure that you purchase a type that is so. It's not been sold as a lightweight so usable. And you want to make sure that that's what the package says because as you finish the edges states through it. Heading what it would be too difficult for you to put your needle through either my hand or machines to make sure why so. Then. When you unrolled the package you'll notice that there's a paper side to it and sort of attacking her sticky side. When you place your usable over the pattern you want the papers I that's what going to Trace your pattern. So place usable. Over the pattern tracer rounds shape. And then cut it out not on the drum line that just sort of a rough cut around the outside. One thing was usable is it can't tend to get stiff if you have a lot of your filled in. And you would like I am assuming to have a more pliable at the end not So here's the trick for making that happen. Once you've got your pattern p.'s roughly cut out like this you want to cut out the center. So what I do is. Just use my sisters to Trace the inside act and remove the center. They don't discard this yet I make sure before it clipped it out and make a little X mark. And you can see my exes from my pencil layer that made me. And that's because when I get ready to press that I sort of have this doughnut shape. I want to press on the wrong side of my Baffert might usable shape so I'm going to place that down. But he can noticed that wanted to donate can get distorted pretty easily. That's where your extra piece comes out. I place that X there so I know exactly how this centerpiece back end. And that helps me to know that I got my and edges in the right alignment. Before I get ready to and and it lipped that out of the way and then I'm going to press. Following the manufacturer's instructions. And you don't sly you're tired you do really just want to lifted up and press it down. To create that bombings. And get all the edges. Firmly adhere. So I don't also. Over here. I can set aside my center shape and reuse that for something smaller and now I'm ready to cut out might shape. This is the point at which I'm going to want to cut. Directly on. My traced the line. And the reason that we cut it out. Originally from the paper with that rough cut is because we want this cut to be one. That's most accurate on that what that does. Is allow you to have usable all the way. To the edge. And your peace. If I had cut debt paper out originally. On the line that I might have a few stray threads along that it spent this way I'm ready. When I get ready to adhere to my foundation with the web going all the way to the edge so at this point then. I'll be able to the paper after I have all the way out. It leaves the adhesive. I'm ready to turn that over and and not to my foundation. Usable web can be a great way to do apple case given the track.
Video 15: Mock Hand-Appliqué Basics
Mock hand-applique gives the appearance of hand applique, but gives you the ease of doing it by machine. Let's talk about what makes doing mock hand-applique successful. First of all, you can choose to do it using monofilament thread and a blind-hem stitch, so that the stitching is nearly impossible to see. It also allows you to keep some of the raised appearance, a little bit more dimension than you would get with fusible applique or another method. The other alternative for mock hand-applique if your machine doesn't have a blind-hem or variable overlock stitch is to use a very narrow, tiny, tiny zigzag stitch. Here, instead of monofilament thread, the quiltmaker chose thread to match the applique shapes, not the background, but the applique shapes themselves. And by choosing a very good thread match, again, it's difficult to tell where the stitching is. And it gives that hand-applique appearance. So, let's talk about a few tips for making mock hand-applique with monofilament thread. The blind-hem stitch is one you might not use often on your machine, but it has this sort of pattern to it. It takes a couple of stitches, a zigzag, a couple more straight stitches, a bite into the fabric, and again, two more straight stitches. Now if you're setting up your machine using a blind-hem stitch, you will want to make sure that these zigzag stitches are no more than 1/8" inch apart. So you're setting a very, very narrow, tiny stitch using the blind-hem. If you're using monofilament thread, you want to use a 60-weight cotton bobbin thread. So you'd only use monofilament thread in the needle. And monofilament is invisible. It comes in a clear or smoke sort of grayish tone if you're working with dark fabrics. It can sometimes have less of a shiny appearance. But the blind-hem stitch, if you're using this, the straight stitches go right along the outside edge of your applique. The bite goes into your applique and back out. And you want those straight stitches to be so near the edge of your applique, but you don't want to bite into the fold because the folded edge is really what gives it that raised appearance. So you don't want to flatten it down with stitches. Instead, you want those straight stitches to take two stitches right along the edge without going into the fold and then the bite to come into the applique to hold it in place, back out to the edge, and all the way around the edge. Now, if you're using the method with the zigzag stitch, then you might want to use a 50- or 60-weight thread, which is a little bit lighter weight. The thread isn't going to be as dense. And it's such a tiny zigzag stitch that you really want the thread to kind of meld into your applique shape. You don't want it to be too heavy or too obvious. Again, you might want to use a 70/10 needle. And when you're doing a lot of applique it makes sense to change your needle often, because you want that point to be very, very sharp and easily go around all of the curves. Take your time, sew slowly, and give mock hand-applique a try. I think you'll enjoy it.to use a 50- or 60-weight thread, which is a little bit lighter weight . The thread isn't going to be as dense. And it's such a tiny zigzag stitch that you really want the thread to
Video 16: Pivoting at Curves and Points
Learn about pivoting the machine needle in order to get smooth machine appliqué stitching.Pivoting on the outside curve, you stop with your needle in the opposite position . You'll stop with your needle down in the foundation right alongside your appliqué and pivot. And here you're stitching in this direction. You'll stitch along,
Video 17: Machine Quilting Setup: Getting Started
See how to prepare a quilt for machine quilting on your home sewing machine.kings nice putts on my machine. And this seems to be it black hole that you lose money in school -- off to -- us. Here. And so mentally he is much space. When you hear some time sometimes and ironing board. Card table . -- Little tomato -- he hands underneath them. You're not everything can be as well let's yeah. House and the space on
Video 18: Free-Motion Quilting
Get tips and tricks about free-motion quilting on your home sewing machine.
Video 19: Choosing Quilting Designs
Learn about choosing machine quilting designs that accentuate the piecing and appliqué motifs.there is because we are then going to go into. She looked straight lines and straight lines are very important. History it's like a circle circle. Not -- there. And so now we can start thinking com went twothe other way and it's it's just couldn't wait to get this straight lines -- So putting that medallion and they're -- service stopping and starting point that you want stitching a straight line all thehappened in this one I knew I was going to do some straight lines because that just. He helped with what was going -- -- so I can't -- -- front but I stopped at the
Video 20: Sewing on Continuous Binding with Mitered Corners
binding quarters can be a little bit tricky if you don't understand. What to do when you the quarter. Let me show you how. When you start attaching your binding quilt top you want to align the edges. And the key. Is to decide ahead of time before you start stitching what you're seeing allowance is going to be. I I'm buying into when it happens is why I'm using it double old mining technique. So my finding is folded in half and pressed. And I'm ready to begin stitching and I'm going to with a generous quarter and seen a little bit shy of three aces. So I start attaching my mind game. And I want to stop. An equal distance. To my seam allowance. Before I get to the corner so because I'm With that generous quarter inch I want to stop. And generous quarter inch before. I get to the corner. I'm going to lift my heal up. And my professor and without cutting that thread I'm going to pull out. My binding. I pulled a strip out. And that creates that right angle and the coroner. I finger press sit. that in place. And pulled it back to town. So that raw edges. Are either. So I got a little flat fabric here. I'll show you got better as we work our way around the Then I'm going to put it back under. The needle. My presser foot down and my Beckett. And again. And stick to the opposite corner. And won't turn the corner again. In this time. Instead of lifting my presser foot and pulling it out. I'm going to cut my thread just for purposes opening scene of well here. She can see maybe a little bit better how we turned the corner. Take your binding strip. And fold it up. And press. So when I pulled it up this street line is straight all the way. finger press that diagonal. I keep my finger in the at the top. Even when this. Scene that I sound. Pulled the binding down. And again I would start showing this edge all the way down. What that means. Is when I go back to that corner I happens a little flap here. That's created where I turned. And I get ready to turn my binding to the back side. I'll just press it with my fingers. I'm going to rule out binding to the back side. And what what happened. On the front edge and is don't have a nice. On the front. So I don't look like bats. And then on the backside I'll have that same So again. When I come. To turn my buying into the back. It's going to cover that stitching line. And when you get to the coroner. You simply want to manipulate. Your turn I could cut those threads off. And say you're back. Corner. We'll look like that. Just like your friend. And that's the secret to putting tighter border markers on your Give it try.buying into when it happens is why I'm using it double old mining technique . So my finding is folded in half and pressed. And I'm ready to begin stitching and I'm going to -- with a
Video 4: Squaring up the Fabric Edge: Right-handed Two-ruler Technique
Learn how to square up fabric using a right-handed rotary cutter and two rulers.two-ruler method, I use a large square ruler and I use any horizontal line along the bottom edge where I folded it, squaring my fabric to that line. I'm not concerned with the lines on the mat -- just the lines I'm looking at on my ruler. So I want to get this within about an inch of the edge, but you can see things don't line up here yet. So with my large square ruler lined up on that horizontal line , I'm going to take another ruler and abut the two together so there's no space here. I'm going to place my left hand on the small ruler, pressing down on my fingertips. I might even use my little finger along the outside edge to stabilize
Video 13: Freezer-Paper Appliqué Prep
There are dozens of ways to prepare applique pieces, but now I'm going to show you one way that utilizes a very common quilter's tool -- freezer paper. And this method uses freezer paper on the wrong side of your appliques. The first step in preparing them is to trace your applique patterns asThe front piece, you have a nice little smooth curve and a sharp edge . And these appliques prepared with the freezer paper on the wrong side method can be used for either hand or machine applique. With either one, you will at some point want to take away the freezer paper template and remove it. But if you have several pieces to prepare and you like the nice sharp edge that freezer paper templates create for you, you can create all your shapes ahead of time, and then when you get ready