Quilt Label Tips
1. Choose a smooth-surface, high-quality, 100%-cotton fabic. Permanent ink pens perform better on all-cotton fabrics than on blends.
2. Prewash the fabric; cotton fabrics usually contain sizing which acts as a barrier to ink penetration.
3. Select a fabric color that will allow the ink to show. Avoid white-on-white prints because the pattern is painted on, rather than dyed into, the fabric. The paint makes writing difficult and the ink doesn't penetrate well.
4. Purchase pens that have permanent ink and are made for fabric. A fine point (.01) writes delicately and is less likely to bleed as it writes. Lines can be made thicker by going over them more than once. For larger letters or numbers, a .05-diameter pen works well.
5. Test the pen and fabric together. Write on a fabric sample, then follow the manufacturer's directions (if included) for setting the ink. Wait 24 hours for the ink to set, then wash the sample as you would any fine quilt. The extra time it takes to run such a test will pay off in years of durability.
6. Stabilize the fabric and create guidelines with freezer paper. Cut a piece of freezer paper large enough to cover the fabric's writing area. Use a ruler and a medium-point black marker to draw evenly spaced lines on the freezer paper's dull side. Iron the freezer paper waxed side to the fabric's wrong side with a hot, dry iron.
7. Repeat Step 6 several times so you have samples for practice.
8. Practice writing. Write slowly with a lighter touch than you would normally write on paper. This allows time for the ink to flow into the fabric and lets you control the letters.Download this Project 
Make A Signature Quilt Label
This 6" block is a great way to incorporate favorite fabrics from your quilt top into a customized quilt label.
From solid white, cream or tan, cut:
1 -- 2x4-3/4" rectangle
From print No. 1, cut:
1 -- 3-7/8" squares, cutting it in half diagonally for 2 triangles total
From a print No. 2, cut:
2 -- 1-7/8x4-3/4" rectangles
1 -- 3-7/8" square, cutting it in half diagonally for 2 triangles total
From freezer paper cut:
1 -- 2x4-3/4" rectangle
Create Signature Strip
1. Center shiny side of a freezer paper 1-1/2x4-1/4" rectangle on wrong side of a white, cream or tan 2x4-3/4" rectangle.
2. Use a black fine-point permanent marking pen to sign and date fabric side of prepared strip, making sure you don’t write in the seam allowances, to make a signature strip. Remove freezer paper.
Assemble and Finish Signature Block
1. Sew print No. 2 rectangles to opposite edges of signature strip (Diagram 1) to make a block center. Press seams toward print. The block center should be 4-3/4" square including seam allowances.
2. Referring to Diagram 2, sew print No. 2 triangles to side edges of block center. Press seams toward triangles.
3. Sew print No. 1 triangles to top and bottom edges of block center to make a label block (Diagram 3). Press seams toward print No. 1 triangles. The block should be 6-1/2" square including seam allowances.
4. Turn under 1/4" seam allowance on each edge. Hand stitch label block to quilt back.Download this Project 
Make A Foundation-Pieced Quilt Label
Even if you only have bits and pieces of fabric left from the quilt top, you can make this 4" square label block to personalize your quilt.
From solid cream, cut:
1 -- 3x5" rectangle
From assorted prints, cut:
6 -- 3" squares
From downloadable pdf, cut:
1 -- Foundation Pattern from paper
Assemble Foundation-Piece Block
1. For one block you’ll need one solid cream 3x5" rectangle (signed, if desired); six assorted print 3" squares; and a foundation paper.
2. With wrong sides together, center area No. 1 of a foundation paper over a 3" square (Diagram 1). Remember, this and all subsequent pieces should cover the area within the lines plus 1/4" beyond them. Hold fabric piece No. 1 in place with your fingers, a pin, or a dab from a glue stick.
3. With right sides together, place a second 3" square under first square, aligning raw edges (Diagram 2). With right side of foundation paper up, stitch on line between areas 1 and 2, beginning and ending a few stitches beyond ends of line (Diagram 3). Trim seam allowance to a scant 1/4". Press second square open, pressing seam toward area No. 2. Trim pieces to about 1/4" beyond lines around areas 1 and 2 (Diagram 4).
4. With raw edges aligned and right sides together, position a solid cream 3x5" rectangle under first two pieces. (Signature on solid cream rectangle should be upside down and facing right side of first two prints.) Stitch on line between areas 1, 2, and 3 (Diagram 5). Trim seam allowance and press solid cream piece open. Trim solid cream piece to about 1/4" beyond lines around area No. 3. Add remaining assorted 3" squares in numerical order, trimming and pressing as before, to make a block (Diagram 6).