Design: Monica Rodriguez for Dear Stella
Fabric: Confetti Dot by Dear Stella
Only 1/4 yard of fabric will get you three of these cute spring baskets! Use them for Easter baskets, sewing room decorations, or gifts for your friends and family. This project is courtesy of our sewing blog, howtosew.com. Visit daily for new sewing projects and easy home decor.
Materials for One Basket:
- 2—6-1/2×9″ rectangles polka dot fabric (matching or contrasting)
- 1—6-1/2×9″ rectangle thin batting (cotton or polyester)
- Water-soluble marking pen
Finished basket: about 3×2-1/2×3″
Sew this project with 1/4″ seams. (Note: For easy viewing in this tutorial we used lavender polka dot for outer basket, pink polka dot for basket lining, and dark thread for stitching.)
1. Stitching about 1/8″ from edges, machine-baste 6-1/2×9″ batting rectangle to wrong side of 6-1/2×9″ lavender rectangle.
2. With right side inside, fold Step 1 rectangle in half matching short edges; pin.
3. Sew sides of folded rectangle; press.
4. Clip seam allowance at fold.
5. Press seam open.
6. Shape a flat bottom. At one corner, match seam line with pressed fold, creating a flattened triangle. Measuring 1-1/2″ from point of triangle, draw a line across triangle.
7. Sew on drawn line. Trim 1/4″ from stitching. Repeat with remaining bottom corner.
8. Turn right side out to make basket body.
9. Repeat steps 2–8 with matching or contrasting polka dot rectangle, leaving a 1-1/2–2″ opening along one side to make basket lining. Do not turn basket lining right side out.
10. Insert basket body inside basket lining with right sides together.
11. Align top edges and side seams; pin together top edges of basket body and basket lining.
12. Using a 1/4″ seam, sew together top edges of basket body and lining.
13. Turn right side out through opening in lining.
14. Hand-stitch opening closed.
15. Insert lining back into basket body and press top edge.
16. Topstitch 1/4″ from top edge through all layers to complete basket.
17. Turn top edge over at basket top to make narrow cuff to complete basket.
Each month, learn a fun trick or tip to make your quilting easier and more polished! This month, learn how to prep your quilt layers for taking them to the long-armer (or quilting them yourself!).
1. Both the batting and the backing should be 6″–8″ wider and longer than the quilt top. Confirm this measurement with your quilter if you’re sending a quilt out for finishing.
2. Make sure the quilt top lays flat by using consistent ¼” seams, pressing seams to one side, and watching for seams that twist and cause a bump. Give a finished quilt top a final press to ensure it is ready to be quilted.
3. Clip all loose threads and fabric, and trim dog-ears. Any of these can cause a shadow behind lighter fabrics if not removed. Loose fabric can bulk up in a quilt sandwich and make it look bumpy.
4. Repair raveling seams and stay-stitch quilt top edges. Especially if you have a pieced border, it’s a good idea to stay-stitch a scant ¼” from quilt top edges to secure unintersected seams. It prevents them from popping open when the quilt layers are loaded onto the machine.
Once a month, we highlight our favorite free quilt and sewing patterns around the web!
Scalloped Hand Towel from Fat Quarter Shop
Freshen your home this spring with a simple project. Whip up some cute and quick hand towels with a scalloped edge. They look great in any prints, so you can use your scraps or pull out your new favorite fabric!
This duffle is practical and super cute! It makes the perfect bag for the gym or for traveling. It’s roomy, has pockets and zippers, and is topped with ruffles for a stylish touch.
Your favorite fat quarters can be used to create these pretty baskets! At 7″ wide, they’re perfect for holding small sewing notions, little candies, or for a fun Easter basket.
Stitch two hems, sew two seams, and you’ve made an amazing pillow. Here you’ll find complete instructions for making pillow covers in four sizes! This project is courtesy of our sewing blog, howtosew.com. Visit daily for new sewing projects and easy home decor.
Fabrics: Stonehenge Out Of The World collection by Linda Ludovico for Northcott
- 1/2 yard print fabric
- 12″, 14″, 16″ or 18″ pillow insert*
*Instructions for sizes larger than 12″ are in parentheses.
Finished pillow cover for a 12″, 14″, 16″, or 18″ square pillow insert
Sew this project with 1/4″ seams.
From print fabric, cut one of the following:
- 12×29″ rectangle for 12″ pillow cover
- 14×33″ rectangle for 14″ pillow cover
- 16×37″ rectangle for 16″ pillow cover
- 18×41″ rectangle for 18″ pillow cover
Make Pillow Cover:
1. Turn under each short edge of print rectangle 1/4″; press. Turn under edges 1/4″ again and stitch each in place.
2. Place hemmed rectangle print side (printed side) up on work surface. Fold hemmed edges of rectangle to center, overlapping hemmed edges by about 4″ to make an 11-1/2×12″ (13-1/2×14″, 15-1/2×16″, or 17-1/2×18″) rectangle; pin top and bottom.
3. Sew across pinned edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance, removing pins as you go.
4. Turn right side out; press. Insert pillow form through opening to complete pillow.
Fabrics: Flora-C1793 in Gold from Timeless Treasures
Each month, learn a fun trick or tip to make your quilting easier and more polished! This month, learn the secret to machine-piecing hexagon rows.
When joining hexagon rows, set-in seams are required. Though the positioning of the pieces is unusual, sewing hexagons together by machine doesn’t have to be difficult; just take it one seam at a time, pinning and sewing carefully from dot to dot. (Be sure to transfer dots from patterns to templates, then to fabric pieces before you start joining pieces.) Follow our step-by-step photos, below, to guide you through the process.
1. To join hexagons in vertical rows, adjacent rows need to be offset. (Example that follows shows top hexagon in Row 2 already trimmed to make a half hexagon.)
2. With right sides together, place first Row 2 hexagon atop first Row 1 hexagon. (In this example, Row 2 begins with a half hexagon.)
3. Push a pin through each pair of dots to align pieces, then pin pieces together.
4. Sew from dot to dot, locking seam ends with backstitches or tiny (0.5-millimeter-long) machine stitches.
5. Open up pieces and reposition Row 2 over Row 1. Align and pin next seam.
6. Without catching seam allowance in stitching, sew next seam from dot to dot.
7. Open up pieces and reposition Row 2 over Row 1. Align and pin third seam.
8. Sew third seam from dot to dot. Do not sew through seam allowances. Continue in same manner until all seams are sewn.
9. Press first seam intersection counterclockwise, forming a tiny hexagon on the fabric wrong side. Press next seam intersection clockwise. Continue alternating the direction you press as you continue down the row.